Thursday 29 November 2012

Life in the Caribbean


Well, imagine is raining, and it is already end of November, sitting at the veranda writing this post. The only difference is that the temperature is 30'C and the rain lasts only for 10-15 minutes. And this is one of the last, because 'summer' approaches soon and rain will come back again next summer eerm winter eeem summer or winter? Anyway, I am sure you know what I mean by all this. This is the south hemisphere, somewhere close to the tropic of cancer, in the south Caribbean sea where life gracefully brought me here.


It is almost 6 weeks since I arrived in Martinique and the more time goes the more I like it. I work at the upgrade of the one and only power plant in the island. Work is going well and I think I have already manage to absorb what is new and start applying it to practice. New types of work, new people, new house, new environments, I am excited! As a fresher in the island, in weekends, I tend to explore certain regions and I have discovered some precious locations, similar to those in postcards. I also start to learn the locals, this weird mix of afro-caribbean and french cultures. They have their own perceptions, their own beliefs and history and arts and music, blended in a special way with one of the largest european cultures, the french. This is my first time living within a black (modern) community, and my intentions are to understand them and respect them as they respect me. I am full of energy to face anything that comes across, good or bad, rain or sunshine, dream or reality.




LondOFF



For the palm trees...



the beach...



and beautiful sunsets



So the last few weeks, I have been exploring this Caribbean island, whenever I get some free time. My base is a beautiful home in Scholecher at the outskirts of Fort-de-France, the capital of Martinique. I am taking it easy, during the week I have only time to see the sunset while returning back from work. Work takes most of my time here but despite that I have adapted well after 9 whole months of work break. I have made new friends, there are some new people around me of multicultural nature, plus the one and only, the guy who invited me here, my co-traveller in the RTW trip, Spyros a.k.a Loufos. We have worked closely (in distance) when at More London, now we work together. Funny to see ourselves from the tree houses in Lao few months ago to work together here in Martinique. He is a great friend and now a great colleague. 



New home at Schoelcher, Martinique



One of the first expeditions, apart from the beaches, was to conquer the highest peak of the island, the volcano Pelee. Located at the north part of the island, the volcano erupted violently 110 years ago claiming the lives of 30000 people in the town of Saint Pierre, the capital of the island back then. Saint Pierre was a rich in culture town, well known not only here but to the rest of the Caribbean. There were theatres, commercial buildings and markets and a harbor. In May 1902, pyroclastic lava pulverised the town and its people within minutes from the eruption. Bodies were found at peaceful positions, like they didn't even have realised what was happening. Everything happened so fast. One man only survived, a prisoner locked in a prison cell with no windows and air intakes. We visited a museum with photographs from the aftermath of the disaster, as well as items collected few days after. Shocking to see the bell melted by the immense heat of the lava. 

We saw the museum and went to start the climb up to the top, at the crater. We chose the fast but difficult way. It was around 3 hours return from the place we left the car, in a steep but well marked path. Unlucky that day, like most of the days, a thick cloud was sitting on top, preventing the views to the rest of the island and to the neighbouring Dominica. We reach (almost) the top and returned back, semi satisfied. A good reason to return there though. Will definitely try it again on a clear day.



View of Mont Pelée from Le Carbet



Saint Pierre_The remains of a pulverised theatre



Saint Pierre_Deformed



Saint Pierre remains two days after the disaster



Views from Mont Pelée



Morne Lacroix nearby the top



Couple of weekends ago we embarked with a catamaran for a sail to the south shores of the island. We left Trois Isles about 9 am and returned back just before dark. A kind of a touristic activity that I don't regret at all to have taken it. They offered plenty of drinks including endless planteur (a mix of rum and fruit juice, very popular here), really nice food on board, snorkeling gear, good music and good vibes. We visited some precious smaller beaches and circled the rocher du Diamant, a 175m high basalt island off the coast of Le Diamant beach. A great battle has happened here in 1803 between the French and the British, both claiming Martinique back then. The day continued by diving into some of the nicest waters I have ever dived, and exploring the coast from the sea. 
      


Rocher du Diamant (The Diamond rock)



Anse d'Arlet



Under and over water Caribbean beauty




Nek & Rg sailing



Progress in the capital of Martinique seems to have stopped somewhere in the 1970's. Feels like the buildings, the shops even the people take you few decades back although in a nice relaxed way. I had a stroll while looking for the markets and discovered a city that runs in a slow tempo, in its own unique way.

The few night bars that stay open till late have strombo and disco lights and artificial smoke to fix up the mood. The music is usually a mix of ragga and dub with black vocals while women perform the 90 degrees dance to their partners. :) The drinks are almost standard mojito or caipirinha and some local beers. It is still fun. We have been also to some private parties, that happen quite often, in villas away from the public eye. Bars and clubs are only few, people preefer their pools and bbqs in private. Nothing to blame.




Fort-de-France_Downtown



Fort-de-France_The fruits market



Fort-de-France_Cool façade



Fort-de-France_Cool façade (2)



Fort-de-France_Foot bridge



Fort-de-France_Graffiti



Fort Saint Louis



Last Sunday we did an excursion to Presqu'île de la Caravelle, the only protected natural reserve in the island. It is the peninsula that sticks out to the Atlantic. There someone can visit the château Dubuc, a kind of castle used in the past either to accommodate the goods the pirates have stolen or later to receive the slaves from West Africa. A small museum shows pictures of the treatment the slaves have had when they arrived here. Shocking... I'm happy that since then the world has changed to better in regards to this atrocity called slavery.




Château Dubuc



Château Dubuc and the Atlantic




Slavery memorial (1)



Slavery memorial (2)



Le route de l'esclave, déportés africains 



The reserve offers opportunities for some fine walks into the nature, into some pure tropical forest mixed with lagoons and sandy beaches. Very clearly marked, the walks vary from 1 to 4 hours paths that circle the presquille. I believe this is one of the most beautiful areas in the island. We saw some incredible trees submerged into the sea water and their branches and roots offered an eye watering psychedelic parenthesis to the green and blue landscape. Always keeping in mind for the highly venomous Martiniquan viper snakes that future in the regional flag too. It was a beautiful day out and certainly I will return there to do the longer path when I get the chance.



Presqu'île de la Caravelle_Lagoon



Presqu'île de la Caravelle_Psychedelic walk 




Presqu'île de la Caravelle_Dream or reality?




Presqu'île de la Caravelle natural reserve



There are more to discover here and I tend to take it easy not to run out of new places quickly. A visit to neighbouring, english speaking, Santa Lucia island is under discussion and I hope we can make it there at some point. Flights and connections around the region are not highly available except if you want to visit Dominica or the more primitive Guadeloupe. There are a lot to discover still and I'm happy. Xmas almost here and it's strange to experience that under 30oC by the beach. :) 



Wish you all the very best of life


From Martinique




NeKtaRioS




p.s and Happy Christmas!





Frogs feast at our cats plates...




The viper flag of Martinique



And for those unaware where Martinique is   :)