Reporting for Dominica

This has been a small break into the neighboring island of Dominica. A lush tropical island in the south Caribbean (the Lesser Antilles). The reason? My good friends from the homelands visited me here in Martinique! They left then for Guadeloupe and Dominica. I went to meet them there and we returned back to Martinique together. They had fabulous time in all three islands and I was very happy to have them for their few days here.   

I left Martinique on a commercial liner boat, the Express Des'iles. The weather was great as well as the mood. It was nice to see the island from the sea, you get a totally different perspective on views. The sea was relatively calm and everything smooth up to the point we left Martinique behind and the boat started moving quite a lot. People got sick and a pleasant sail ended up fighting for survival(!) I  will not go in detail but it was an experience to go through this and felt proper relieved when I touched my feet onto the Kubuli land, Dominica.          

Leaving Martinique

Approaching Dominica

Entering an independent country

Dominicans are proud for their history and culture. 72,000 inhabitants-islanders forming an independent Commonwealth country. The last of the Caribbean islands to be colonised by the Europeans, it gained independence from the British in 1978. The Caribs were fierce fighters and had the assistance of the thick jungle and mountainous terrain to retain most of invaders. Though Domenica (Sunday) was the day that Christopher Columbus first sighted the island, the locals call their country something maybe more poetic, Waitikubuli, which means 'tall is her body'. Kubuli pride is everywhere, at signs and posters, the name of the national beer!          

Dominica offers one of the best places in the world if you like natural hot spa under a leafy jungle environment. Due to its volcanic nature, hot springs are everywhere. There is even a hot lake up in Trois Piton National Park called the boiling lake. The temperatures are really boiling. The spa cottage were we stayed had an outdoor pool plus a smaller indoor one with water with higher temperatures.      

I did also sense some environmental awareness in Dominica. No litter and signs provoking you to respect the environment and the surroundings are in most places. The locals seemed respectful towards nature and I liked that. Kubulis have a beautiful piece of volcanic rock and I see no reason why shouldn't they be proud for their country.
       

Dominica_..the Kubuli country

Dominica_Environmental awareness

Dominica_Follow the sign to the jungle...

Dominica_...and submerge yourself into the hot waters 

Dominica_Indoor hot pool

We followed the so called longest trail in the Caribbean, the Waitukubuli trail. We walked in a wet, muddy, full of roots trail in a thick tropical rainforest. Was beautiful and wild in vegetation. We stopped and enjoyed the few sun-rays passing through the tall trees. About 20 minutes after we arrived at the Middleham waterfall. An amazing waterfall, cascading off a rainforest ridge falling about 60 meters into a tranquil blue swimmable pool. We didn't swim it but we left wet by the intense spray from the fall. It was about a 3 hours return walk to the fall and were thirsty. So we stopped by and enjoyed the local pride..          

Dominica_The longest trail in the Caribbean

Dominica_Raga roots

Dominica_Stunning Middleham waterfall

Dominica_Visiting with the expedition from Megara

Dominica_Local pride

Dominica looks poor from the first sight. Not to a poverty level but still someone can sense that there is only little to be shared here. Comparing with Martinique it's like a world away. The roads with potholes, quickly made housings that remind Africa, old cars, and shops that you can buy cigarettes per piece. The eastern Caribbean dollar is certainly not as strong as other hard currencies. Although people are proud for their country and despite the difficulties most of Dominicans seem happy people. 

Dominica_This is Kubuli

Dominica_Chilling by the side walk!(!)

Cooperative credit union of Dominica

Dominica_Your patriotic neighbor  

We got bikes and rounded the south part. We visited several places including the magnificent Trafalgar falls. We could choose to relax in a natural hot spa under the thick jungle or swim the cold waters from the waterfalls. It was an exhilarating experience. Couple of hours after being submerged into the sulfur waters your skin feels smooth and clean; your mind too.   

Anarchy in Dominica

Dominica_The Trafalgar falls (Mama and Papa)

Dominica_Placid feelings

We continued south till the end tip of the island. We arrived at the Scotts Head, a small peninsula nearby the village. the Carib name of the peninsula is Cachacrou which means 'hat which is being eaten'. From there we could see the north side of Martinique too.  

Dominica_The Scotts Head peninsula 

Dominica_Walking to the Champagne reef

It has been really nice short break to the neighboring Dominica and even for this short while I was able to get a glimpse of the local hospitality and their culture. I realised that even if it is so near to Martinique it is a world away. Colonisation in the Caribbean has separated not only economically but also culturally the islands and people. We spoke with the man here below and told us he has never been to Martinique, an hour and a half with the boat away. He seemed happy though so maybe it is better for him and everyone to stay where he belongs. We took a set of silly pictures, he wanted to get photographed with everyone. :) Pitty I don't even remember his name. 
      

Dominica_Cool Kubuli people

Dominica_Ready for everything

Great place to visit, but my advise is only if you are around. Don't travel too far to reach Dominica, it's little and you will want mooore :)

All the best

N

Wild things

Discovering mystic ways through rhythm and sound in an idyllic Caribbean location ... 

Happy New Yeeeaarrr!

Life in the Caribbean

Well, imagine is raining, and it is already end of November, sitting at the veranda writing this post. The only difference is that the temperature is 30'C and the rain lasts only for 10-15 minutes. And this is one of the last, because 'summer' approaches soon and rain will come back again next summer eerm winter eeem summer or winter? Anyway, I am sure you know what I mean by all this. This is the south hemisphere, somewhere close to the tropic of cancer, in the south Caribbean sea where life gracefully brought me here.

It is almost 6 weeks since I arrived in Martinique and the more time goes the more I like it. I work at the upgrade of the one and only power plant in the island. Work is going well and I think I have already manage to absorb what is new and start applying it to practice. New types of work, new people, new house, new environments, I am excited! As a fresher in the island, in weekends, I tend to explore certain regions and I have discovered some precious locations, similar to those in postcards. I also start to learn the locals, this weird mix of afro-caribbean and french cultures. They have their own perceptions, their own beliefs and history and arts and music, blended in a special way with one of the largest european cultures, the french. This is my first time living within a black (modern) community, and my intentions are to understand them and respect them as they respect me. I am full of energy to face anything that comes across, good or bad, rain or sunshine, dream or reality.

LondOFF

For the palm trees...

the beach...

and beautiful sunsets

So the last few weeks, I have been exploring this Caribbean island, whenever I get some free time. My base is a beautiful home in Scholecher at the outskirts of Fort-de-France, the capital of Martinique. I am taking it easy, during the week I have only time to see the sunset while returning back from work. Work takes most of my time here but despite that I have adapted well after 9 whole months of work break. I have made new friends, there are some new people around me of multicultural nature, plus the one and only, the guy who invited me here, my co-traveller in the RTW trip, Spyros a.k.a Loufos. We have worked closely (in distance) when at More London, now we work together. Funny to see ourselves from the tree houses in Lao few months ago to work together here in Martinique. He is a great friend and now a great colleague. 

New home at Schoelcher, Martinique

One of the first expeditions, apart from the beaches, was to conquer the highest peak of the island, the volcano Pelee. Located at the north part of the island, the volcano erupted violently 110 years ago claiming the lives of 30000 people in the town of Saint Pierre, the capital of the island back then. Saint Pierre was a rich in culture town, well known not only here but to the rest of the Caribbean. There were theatres, commercial buildings and markets and a harbor. In May 1902, pyroclastic lava pulverised the town and its people within minutes from the eruption. Bodies were found at peaceful positions, like they didn't even have realised what was happening. Everything happened so fast. One man only survived, a prisoner locked in a prison cell with no windows and air intakes. We visited a museum with photographs from the aftermath of the disaster, as well as items collected few days after. Shocking to see the bell melted by the immense heat of the lava. 

We saw the museum and went to start the climb up to the top, at the crater. We chose the fast but difficult way. It was around 3 hours return from the place we left the car, in a steep but well marked path. Unlucky that day, like most of the days, a thick cloud was sitting on top, preventing the views to the rest of the island and to the neighbouring Dominica. We reach (almost) the top and returned back, semi satisfied. A good reason to return there though. Will definitely try it again on a clear day.

View of Mont Pelée from Le Carbet

Saint Pierre_The remains of a pulverised theatre

Saint Pierre_Deformed

Saint Pierre remains two days after the disaster

Views from Mont Pelée

Morne Lacroix nearby the top

Couple of weekends ago we embarked with a catamaran for a sail to the south shores of the island. We left Trois Isles about 9 am and returned back just before dark. A kind of a touristic activity that I don't regret at all to have taken it. They offered plenty of drinks including endless planteur (a mix of rum and fruit juice, very popular here), really nice food on board, snorkeling gear, good music and good vibes. We visited some precious smaller beaches and circled the rocher du Diamant, a 175m high basalt island off the coast of Le Diamant beach. A great battle has happened here in 1803 between the French and the British, both claiming Martinique back then. The day continued by diving into some of the nicest waters I have ever dived, and exploring the coast from the sea. 

      

Rocher du Diamant (The Diamond rock)

Anse d'Arlet

Under and over water Caribbean beauty

Nek & Rg sailing

Progress in the capital of Martinique seems to have stopped somewhere in the 1970's. Feels like the buildings, the shops even the people take you few decades back although in a nice relaxed way. I had a stroll while looking for the markets and discovered a city that runs in a slow tempo, in its own unique way.

The few night bars that stay open till late have strombo and disco lights and artificial smoke to fix up the mood. The music is usually a mix of ragga and dub with black vocals while women perform the 90 degrees dance to their partners. :) The drinks are almost standard mojito or caipirinha and some local beers. It is still fun. We have been also to some private parties, that happen quite often, in villas away from the public eye. Bars and clubs are only few, people preefer their pools and bbqs in private. Nothing to blame.

Fort-de-France_Downtown

Fort-de-France_The fruits market

Fort-de-France_Cool façade

Fort-de-France_Cool façade (2)

Fort-de-France_Foot bridge

Fort-de-France_Graffiti

Fort Saint Louis

Last Sunday we did an excursion to Presqu'île de la Caravelle, the only protected natural reserve in the island. It is the peninsula that sticks out to the Atlantic. There someone can visit the château Dubuc, a kind of castle used in the past either to accommodate the goods the pirates have stolen or later to receive the slaves from West Africa. A small museum shows pictures of the treatment the slaves have had when they arrived here. Shocking... I'm happy that since then the world has changed to better in regards to this atrocity called slavery.

Château Dubuc

Château Dubuc and the Atlantic

Slavery memorial (1)

Slavery memorial (2)

Le route de l'esclave, déportés africains 

The reserve offers opportunities for some fine walks into the nature, into some pure tropical forest mixed with lagoons and sandy beaches. Very clearly marked, the walks vary from 1 to 4 hours paths that circle the presquille. I believe this is one of the most beautiful areas in the island. We saw some incredible trees submerged into the sea water and their branches and roots offered an eye watering psychedelic parenthesis to the green and blue landscape. Always keeping in mind for the highly venomous Martiniquan viper snakes that future in the regional flag too. It was a beautiful day out and certainly I will return there to do the longer path when I get the chance.

Presqu'île de la Caravelle_Lagoon

Presqu'île de la Caravelle_Psychedelic walk 

Presqu'île de la Caravelle_Dream or reality?

Presqu'île de la Caravelle natural reserve

There are more to discover here and I tend to take it easy not to run out of new places quickly. A visit to neighbouring, english speaking, Santa Lucia island is under discussion and I hope we can make it there at some point. Flights and connections around the region are not highly available except if you want to visit Dominica or the more primitive Guadeloupe. There are a lot to discover still and I'm happy. Xmas almost here and it's strange to experience that under 30oC by the beach. :) 



Wish you all the very best of life


From Martinique




NeKtaRioS




p.s and Happy Christmas!

Frogs feast at our cats plates...

The viper flag of Martinique

And for those unaware where Martinique is   :) 

         

Vive la Martinique!

With love from the 'Island of Flowers'!

Les Salines, Martinique

34 and counting....

N



+596 696 298 336

p.s check the king of cadence-lypso from neighboring Dominica.. Great spirit..