NektaR in the World Wild Web: From Phu Quoc to Hanoi (Viet Nam)

It has been several days contemplating how to start this post about Vietnam. It gets increasingly more difficult for me to stop and think what has happened, what we experienced, and attempt to put these in writing. Things moving on so fast, I feel like I'm in a travelling film running fast forward. Every time we see a new place, every time we experience something great, by the time it takes to realise it, we are already to the next one! There is no time to look back but only forward. I will try to put my thoughts together however and with the aid of Spyros' calendar too, I will report through this blog our days in mighty Vietnam!

I have uploaded more photos this time, plus some videos, to assist story telling and help me remember moments and impressions. There are so many more I wanted to upload but then it will look more like facebook than a blog. So I did my best to include representative photos from each place and theme. For more photos, let's meet up when back to Europe for a coffee or a nice (Vietnamese?) dinner! :)

Welcome to Vietnam! (The country that is, not the war). We left Sihanoukville in Cambodia to cross the border into Vietnam before taking a two hour boat trip to Phu Quoc, a beautiful Vietnamese island opposite Cambodia. Stayed few days and had our first contact with the southerners, the great food and the local currency, Vietnamese dong. In fact, by the time we withdrew cash for first time, we were already millionaires! (In dong that is).

Phu Quoc island_Indigenous fishing basket

Phu Quoc island_Indigenous Greeks

Phy Quoc island is a densely forested tropical island, about the size of the island of Corfu. Unlike other mainland areas in south Vietnam, Phu Quoc lacks the fresh water supply and this is in a way a blessing because otherwise irrigation and farming would have taken its toll replacing the jungle. Instead, 90% of it is lush green tropical forests, with white sandy beaches adding up to the scenery. We stayed at a nice and cheap bungalow and spent few days by the beach, eating delicious sea food and exploring the surrounding forests. We hired a bike and drove from the north to the south and back. It was fun to discover some bike-only ways and got a bit lost before returning back to the beach. After 3 days, we realised that this place is more ideal for loving couples and not for two grown up boys looking for adventures so we decided to go.

Phu Quoc island_Macro to the thin sand grains

Phu Quoc island_Sea food cook-it-yourself hot pot

Phu Quoc island_Sea food yummies

Phu Quoc island_Sandy beaches (1)

Phu Quoc island_Sandy beaches (2)

Phu Quoc island_Sunset

We crossed back to the mainland and got on board to a bus towards Can Tho, the provincial capital of the Mekong Delta. The delta is a long disputed region with Cambodians still calling it 'Lower Cambodia'. There are thousand of canals and waterways and locals move around mainly with boats. The delta is one of the most important regions for rice production in the world! Vietnam is the 2nd (or 3rd) largest exporter of rice globally so consider next time you see rice in your plate, it could be coming from the Mekong delta! The Vietnamese call it 'the basket of rice'!

Mekong Delta_Endless rice fields

Mekong Delta_Waterways

We stayed only a day and night but we managed to wake up early and visit the buzzy and colourful floating markets at the Mekong river. We met our motorboat lady (all of them are women) at 5am and in an hour or so we were in the middle of the trade. Hundreds of boat traders, loaded with fruit, vegetables and other local goods cruising around for the best deals. Some of the boats were so heavily loaded that one could think they will sink soon rather than later, except if they were about to offload some of the goods. Pineapples, bananas, pumpkins, coconuts were of high demand plus some other fruits and veggies, unknown to me. While the trading was taking place, the boats were tighten between them so not to get off by the strong current of the Mekong river. A proper, busy floating market with the boat engines sound being pretty immense around us. We visited couple of smaller floating markets, on some run-by rivers to the Mekong. They were quiter and more fun and we got some stuff for ourselves too. We continued through the canals and on the way back to Can Tho we visited a small noodle making factory. We saw how they convert the rice to spaghetti looking like noodles. However, we still both don't get how the rice gets done as a plant and how the rice grains are created. Hopefully we will find out before leaving Asia! :)

Mekong Delta_On trade

Mekong Delta_Propeller driven micro economy

Mekong Delta_Rice pancakes

Mekong Delta_Becoming noodles..

Mekong Delta_We love conical hats!

Mekong Delta_Goods on offer (not the shoes)

Mekong Delta_Tighten together

Mekong Delta_Proud trader

Mekong Delta_Paddling to work

Mekong Delta_Sweet lady

Mekong Delta_Pineapple trophy

Can Tho_Snake charmer

Can Tho_Rice, rice ,rice

From the Mekong delta we moved to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). A big metropolitan city, the former capital of south Vietnam. We spent few days planning our next days and visiting some museums etc. We visited the war remnants museum, a museum dedicated to the Vietnamese war and the atrocities that took place during the 60's and 70's. The Vietnamese war was well documented, journalists were allowed to freely report from both sides. That is probably why the war had such a great publicity in the western world, creating numerous anti war movements worldwide, festivals dedicated to peace on earth and the hippies movement. The museum had a great collection of real photographs of how heavily Vietnam was bombed plus the atrocities that took place and other war crimes such as the spraying of 'agent orange', a strong chemical sprayed by planes to many south Vietnamese regions. I saw some people in tears in this museum. And really if I was an American I wouldn't have felt proud leaving this place.

Saigon_Local delight

Saigon_Psychedelic tree

Saigon_War remnants museum

Saigon_Shocking

Saigon_US ordnance impact

I loved Saigon, a city that sleeps early but very very busy all day long. The traffic is crazy, there are over 3 million bikes in Saigon alone! Crossing the road here is something you have to think twice and maybe a little pray to God for humanity to be nice with you, it would help! There are pedestrian crossings but these are like non existing for the local drivers. Traffic lights too.. Traffic police just gazes to the traffic. Although, we didn't come across to any crash or angry people. There is some kind of order in chaos. The speed is slow so accidents can be prevented. You get a direction and you stick with it and make sure the other see you. The horn is not so popular comparing to India or Nepal where tracks and cars have stickers logos saying 'Horn please', here is 'Look please'! These are some tips for surviving Saigon traffic, from a survivor.. :)

Saigon_Notre Dam cathedral

Saigon_Municipal theatre

Saigon_Modern aspects (of communism)

Saigon_Repairing my backback

Saigon_Saigon traffic jungle

Saigon_Half Honda - Half Vespah

Saigon_Big burden

Saigon_Home is wherever I'm with you

Saigon_Chilling

Saigon_Motorbike parking lot(!)

After few days out and about, we decided to buy our own bikes and do in two weeks what the Americans did not succeed in ten years; cross the country from the south to the north! Considering there millions of bikes, we did find two of those relatively easy. The trade was quick as we wanted to leave Saigon for the remotes as quickly as possible. We paid 275usd for two derelicts, with only photocopies of the original licenses, and next day we were on the road for the first part of an epic journey!

We strapped our backpacks on the back, had our departing ceremony out of the Notre Dam cathedral and off we go! With a route through the highlands planed and an enabled GPS Blackberry device, we hit the road. Our aim was to reach Dalat, a mountainous town in the highlands, about 300kms away(!), before dark. Obviously our plan was very optimistic.. We were driving our derelicts for first day, with no checks from a mechanic or any other kind of servicing. We said to do so after reaching Dalat. But we did not account the highlands weather or problems with the bikes. We drove through some torrential sudden tropical rains. My bike got water on the electrics and had to wait to dry. Spyros' was leaking large amounts of oil. We got a bottle and we were adding constantly. We run out of fuel few times, my lights went off, Spyros bike died at the last up hills but we made it at the end! Wet and cold (thankfully our packs were waterproofed) we reached Dalat after 15hrs, about 9pm.

Saigon_Departing ceremony

Saigon_Selecting safer helmets

Dalat is a beautiful mountainous town that resembles something from the French Alps. Located at 1450m altitude it is sensibly chiller than Saigon and the surroundings are beautiful mountains and forests. Here instead of making rice they cultivate strawberries, artichoke (tea), blackberries (not the handsets:), sweet beans (mut dao) and candied plums, peaches etc, as well as top Vietnamese wine. Well, there aren't any ski slops but there is a relatively big 'Eiffel Tower' replica near the city center and numerous villas, heritage from the French colonial period.

We visited the market and the lake plus the mechanic for servicing and off we go again. The good thing is that you can find someone to fix your bike almost everywhere in Vietnam. We had several encounters with local garages in the middle of nowhere, sometimes for minor issues and other times considering them as our saviours from savings us sleeping rough somewhere, somehow.. Even with the lack of a common language, they were all so nice, helpful and also really cheap! They were even taking photographs of us with their mobile phones, what a sightseeing!

Dalat_'Tour Eiffel'

Dalat_Stand of goods

Dalat_Strawberies

Dalat_Artichokes

Dalat_Delivery for your aquarium

Dalat_Repairs

Dalat_Too short for our kind

Dalat_This is for you Dad!

Dalat_My local favourite

With our bikes serviced (and washed), we left Dalat aiming to arrive in Buon Ma Thuot before dark. Something we didn't manage, again.. Not only because one of the bikes played 'games' again but also due to our numerous stops to visit some waterfalls, a silk factory or simply gaze at the amazing landscape. The weather at this altitude was colder and an hour before we arrive to our overnight stop, it rained again... Brrrr.. Again we've made it.. Even though wet, it was good fun!

HCM trail_Silkworms

HCM trail_Converted to beautiful cloth..

HCM trail_Pongour waterfall

HCM trail_Cold shower

HCM trail_Class on its own

HCM trail_Half Honda - Half Vespah (2nd attempt)

HCM trail_Young Vietnamese Milan fan

Buon Ma Thuot is famous for its good coffee (gold weasel; weasels eat the coffee berries and then collected back from their poo after brewed undigested in their stomach!). A prosperous town in the highlands, we brought further prosperity to the local bike fixing industry, having a major refit in one bike and other minor fixes on the other one. Having driven them 500kms in two days we knew what we had to finally fix.. From here onwards had no other major problems with them.

It took us two days to reach sea level Hoi An from Buon Ma Thuot. We drove the Ho Chi Minh (HCM) trail, a relatively good road with no traffic, that goes through high altitude rice fields, waterfalls, jungle, small minority villages with amazing views; simply breathtaking! We stopped many times for a coffee with the enjoyable locals or just to take photos of our surroundings.. It was sooo worthing to drive our own way up here to this trail. We really had two amazing days of trouble free driving and cultural and natural sightseeing at the Vietnamese highlands. Days to remember..

HCM trail_Floating neighbourhood

HCM trail_Stop over for boiled corn on the cob

HCM trail_Locally made rainproof coat in blue, $0.35

HCM trail_ Real Vietnam

HCM trail_Posing for glory(1)

HCM trail_Posing for glory(2)

HCM trail_Lonely cow

Evening time at the HCM trail (1)

Evening time at the HCM trail (2)

HCM trail_Rice fields reflections

Hoi An is an UNESCO world heritage site-town. The beauty of the old town is thanks to the over 800 well preserved buildings. They survived due to french efforts to convince the Americlans not to bomb this cultural treasure dating back to the 14th century when it was a major trading port for Japanese and South East Asian goods. Nowadays, tourism is a good reason to preserve the old town and put restrictions on renovations and building amendments. However, this has come to an expense. All old houses are today souvenir shops, restaurants or tailors. Real life in Hoi An has long gone.. It is indeed very beautiful and charming but again ideal for loving couples not for us.. We got some tailored made clothes (a suit for my interview in Singapore and a trousers for Spyros) and continued to north Vietnam.

Hoi An_Same, same but different

Hoi An_Preserved architecture

Hoi An_Made to measure (1)

Hoi An_Made to measure (2)

Hoi An_'Buy somethiiiing'

Hoi An_River front

Hoi An_Touristic Vietnam

Hoi An_Shadowed

Hoi An_Glorious sunsets (1)

Hoi An_Glorious sunsets (2)

Hoi An_Glorious sunsets (3)

Hoi An_By night

Hoi An_Really delicious pastries

Someone can sense the difference from the communist north to the non communist, more liberated south Vietnam. People from Hue and up north are not as open and welcoming and it appears they will accept you only because you bring business to them not because of who you are or to cultural exchange with you. The weather has turned to cold, grey and cloudy. I am not sure if this difference in behaviour is because in the north are mostly communists or because of the grey weather. Personaly I felt the difference of attitude between the regions and it put me thinking..

We visited Tam Coc, a beautiful place near the town of Ninh Binh. A kind of a hidden gem in northern Vietnam. We arrived on a proper English weather (showers), looked for a place to stay before going down to the river to hire a boat for a two hour return journey to the beautiful landscape nearby. Even if the weather was not as favourable, it was an amazing short journey to remember. We paddled through some amazing limestone outcrops, sticking around between rice fields. We passed through three caves, one of which 145 meters long. At some point it was completely pitch black inside (see video), hoping that our row boat lady knows where we were going. Our exit from the cave it was simply amazing; coming from the dark to some eye watering natural beauties. Another boat lady stopped to offer coffee, tea and fruits. We went quite late in the afternoon so there weren't many other boats around, and with the absence of any engine noise here, it was peaceful and relaxing. I really enjoyed our short ride plus the delicious pho soup we had after that.

Tam Coc_On a rainy day

Tam Coc_Waiting for customers

Tam Coc_Paddling to the caves

Tam Coc_Mind your head

Tam Coc_Beautiful limestone outcrops

Paddling at Tam Coc

Tam Coc_Service afloat

Tam Coc_Temple at the river bank

Tam Coc_Simply stunning

Tam Coc_Back to the village

Ha Long bay is another Vietnamese UNESCO world heritage site. Ha Long bay literally means 'the bay of the descending dragon'. A well known site of exceptional beauty. A bay consist of a dense cluster of over 3000 limestone monolithic islands, all covered with thick jungle vegetation, rising spectacularly from the sea. A community of over 1600 people live in the fishing villages around the bay. It is a dream site for every romantic person!

However, for us it was not as romantic. We arrived well in Ha Long city and found a nice hotel overlooking the bay. Next day we departed for a day tour into the bay. The weather was not as it should be visiting a place like this. It was grey and relatively cold. Siting out on the deck was sometimes very unpleasant despite our surroundings. The tour took us through some amazing caves, one of the fishing villages and the famous 'kissing rocks' (or chickens as the locals say). It was a beatutiful landscape in a not beautiful day. We got more grumpy when the 'captain' transfered us to another boat for returning back to the coast, only to realise that the second boat was a private hire and did not move for at least an hour. Returning back to the harbour, we demanded and got half of our money back which we invested in a nice soup and some bike repairs.

Ha Long bay_Moored to visit the caves

Ha Long bay_Thien Cung cave

Ha Long bay_Hang Day cave

Ha Long bay_Caveman autofocus

Ha Long bay_Cruising in the bay

Ha Long bay_Floating fishing village

Ha Long bay_Floating house

Ha Long bay_Magnificent landscape

Ha Long bay_The 'kissing chickens'

Ha Long bay on a grey day

Ha Long bay on a sunny day (well, photo from a poster)

Following our Ha -not so- Long visit, it was time to do our last 150 kms drive to the capital, Hanoi. The ride was smooth and enjoyable and even with the lack of sunshine (for the last 7 days) we were up and high! We stopped at some beautiful spots along the way before reaching Hanoi about 3pm. We entered into a greater traffic chaos comparing to Saigon. We stayed at the old city quarter where the streets are narrow and packed with motorbikes going to every direction at any time.

We didn't see much of Hanoi as we were mostly interested to sell the bikes and leave for Laos. We explored only the city center and the local delicacies (rice pudding). Again the weather was miserable. People were pestering you to 'buy something' and there was a struggle every time you wanted to walk around with so many bikes. We managed to sell the bikes at an amazing 80usd for both. This was mainly due to the photocopied licenses plus it was unveiled my bike had a fake plate too! In fact, we sold them only for parts.

Hanoi_Survivor, just arrived to destination

Hanoi_Local delight

Hanoi_Pho ga (the rice noodle soup I loved)

Hanoi_Rice pudding

Hanoi_Urban jungle

Hanoi_Balanced

After selling the bikes, it was kind of strange for us not to have wheels to move around. We literally got embedded to the bike for the last two weeks. We had lots of break downs, thousands kilometers to cover, bad weather, traffic and dangerous roads but on the other side we had the freedom of movement. We could stop whenever and wherever we wanted, in whichever route we chosen. We met really nice every day people, often interacting with them with the minimum of language communication. Instead, we used our hands and a good smile. Amazing Vietnam, a country in south east Asia to be visited and remembered not only for the war but also for its outstanding natural beauty and its nice people (at least in the south).

Brave enough we got on board to a hellish 23 hours bus ride to Vientiane, Laos. We left Vietnam behind at the Nam Phao border crossing. Emotional moment. But again, after checking out from the previous one we were happy to realise we are entering into yet another one. Lao PDR!