Welcome to Lao, the 'kingdom of a million elephants'! A beautiful landlocked country in Southeast Asia. We entered Lao PDR (Peoples' Democratic Republic) from Vietnam at the Nam Phao border crossing, near the old town of Vinh. The ride on a sleeper bus was the longest ever, it took 23 hours to arrive. In the meantime, the driver was loading more people at several stops, who were sitting at the corridors between the beds. We were juggling between them, stepping on sleeping bodies to get out of the bus at each service stop. I felt we were in an illegal immigrants bus to a country for a better future. After all this pretty unique experience, we arrived in the capital of Lao, Vientiane. We found a place to stay and had a nice shower at last.
Lao children speaking English (by the book)
In Vientiane, we had our first contact with the locals. Well, we had the encounter with the above children on our way to here, willing to exercise their English that learn at school. People here are again somewhat different from the other Indochina countries. It seemed to me, their looks are a mix of Vietnam and Cambodia looks. In Cambodia, people look more like Indians, darker and quick on their responses. In Vietnam, they look more like Chinese, their eyes are thinner and their attitude to life is closer to China than India. Here in Lao, they are darker but more Chinese looking like. More welcoming than northern Vietnam and very relaxed. Their national motto could be easily be 'don't worry, be happy'! A local belief says the Vietnamese grow rice, the Cambodians eat it when people from Lao enjoying watching it grow.
Vientiane was maybe the most peaceful and quite capital city I ever visited. Traffic was minimum, large roads seemed empty, no noise pollution and clean. No people pestering tourists, nice atmosphere, good food and beer Lao. Beer Lao is considered as the national pride. It is owned 51% by the government and it has a staggering market share of 99% in Lao. It tastes indeed very nice, kind of a sweet beer and is very very cheap. The local currency (Kip) is stronger than the Vietnamese dong, but still in Lao life is cheaper. So please, keep your kip here! :)
Vientiane_National pride
Vientiane_'The flying crepe'
We rented two bicycles to explore the city a bit further. We visited the Arc de Triomphe looking-like Patuxai in the centre, this beautiful monument inspired by the French and adapted to a Buddhist version. We also had a stroll at the Mekong riverfront. A long way over the city, nicely paved and great views of the Mekong further away. Lao people claim their country as the 'jewel of the Mekong'.
Vientiane_At Victory Gate (Patuxai)
Vientiane_King Fa Ngum statue at the river bank
After two days in the capitlal, we took another night bus to another World Heritage site-town, Luang Prabang, about 420 kilometres north of Vientiane. Rivers are also an important means of transport in Lao. We could have taken a river boat (fast or slow) and arrive almost the same time as the bus. Although we heard that it can be dangerous and unpleasant as the river in dry season is at its lowest and the boat can hit rocks etc. We opted for the sleeping bus, with large single beds, for cheaper and also for comfort.
Luang Prabang was even more peaceful. A historic city with special architecture and cultural heritage. We visited some beautiful temples and the markets. The detail on the temples was amazing. It appeared as they must have been building them for ages.
Luang Prabang_Exotic Haw Kham temple
Luang Prabang_Amazing multiple roofing detail at Wat Sen
Luang Prabang_Hidden gem
Luang Prabang_World heritage architecture
The local night market was full of locally produced artefacts, and goods from the neighbouring regions. It is said that this market is maybe the quietest and most peaceful of all markets in Southeast Asia! Even when bargaining people were nice and smiley, not shouts or weird hand gestures. I felt kind of uncomfortable to even ask for a lower price. The night market also included the food market, with really delicious food on offer. A narrow alley was converted to a long street food market, with all sorts of nice food available. You could pick up food from any cook, mix and match your choice and pay at one person at the end. We had some cool sausages there, which Spyros will remember quite well for the next days due to their amazing power to send you to toilet at a constant basis... haha
As well as in Vientiane, I have noticed a lot of young monks walking around the town, sometimes on their own or with their elder monks. All male children here must become monks for at least a year after school. As far as I understood it is compulsory, something like the Greek army service but in a religious institution. They were very approachable and looked happy. I had a short talk with a group of them, asking them if they practice Vipassana, a 10 day meditation technique that involves no speak or interactions with others (except with the master), no food or water (only the necessary). They say it is a way of self transformation through self observation. They all agreed it is hard work and difficult to do. I started thinking what is finally more difficult for a teenager, the army or monastic life?
Luang Prabang_Local young monk
Luang Prabang_Choose a smoothie
Luang Prabang_Sundried bananas
Luang Prabang_Mix and match at the night food market
Luang Prabang_Fogy sunset at the Mekong river bank
After few days in this far from what I know town, it was time to move again. Counting the pros and cons of the bus vs motorboat we opted again for a bus. This time was a normal seater bus, not a sleeper. Our destination, Huay Xai, Bokeo province, in northern Lao was not a touristic or a popular route. The night journey was a 500 kilometres 13 hours journey on a road that barely went on a straight line for more than 500 meters. And unfortunately we could not even enjoy our surroundings being pitch black dark. People were vomiting and my fellow co traveller had the sausages calling him for action! It was a tough journey but we made it. We arrived in Huay Xai in the morning, a town that lies at the banks of the Mekong that form the border with Thailand.
Luang Prabang_Bus map to Bokeo
Huay Xai is located within the Golden Triangle. A region that spans over four countries, Burma, Thailand, Vietnam and northern Laos. An area well known for the growing of opium, it was only overtaken by Afghanistan in 2003 as the largest producer of heroin in the world! Even paramilitary forces are involved to the protection of these areas. We tried to be cautious.. In Huay Xai once there was a large heroin factory. We asked our guides in Bokeo to tell us about, it seemed they knew but didn't want to talk too much about it..
We visited a nice budhist temple up in the hill from the main road, and got a nice sunset on the Mekong from up there. From the other side of the river was Thailand. We tried the local grilled fish, fished at the Mekong and heavily topped with salt. Nothing great, in Greece they taste much better. :) We only stayed a day and a night before getting deeper into the Bokeo reserve for the amazing Gibbon Experience.
Huay Xai_Staircase to heaven
Huay Xai_Extravagant
Huay Xai_Lao style
Huay Xai_View of the Mekong from the hill
Huay Xai_Heavilly salted grilled fish
Huay Xai_Kolao technology(!)
This was something we had planned since we were in Vietnam. An Australian 60 yrs old guy we met in a guesthouse in Tam Coc was talking to us for some zip lines in the jungle that you can hop from one hill to another, sliding 40 meters above ground and sleeping in treehouses! It sounded pretty interesting and we decided to do some further research. We founded some similar experiences in southern Lao and in northern Thailand but this it was the biggest and longest zipline in a jungle canopy experience we came across.
Located within the Nam Ha biodiversity conservation area, the Bokeo nature reserve is an untouched forest, home of many gibbons, civet cats and bears. Animo, the organisation that manages the Gibbon Experience, employs local people to build tree houses and metal wires for accessing them. They also employ forest guards to protect the forest from slash and burn activity. Visitors then come to enjoy the setting for a (kind of expensive) fee. The money go back to the locals, preventing them from exploiting opportunities in poaching or logging. Which means that the funds received are re-invested back to protect the forest. Or at least that what the brochure says...
The Bokeo reserve consists of a relatively large area of mix-deciduous forest in a mountainous terrain ranging from 500m to 1500m in elevation. The old forest is protected and guarded. Biodiversity in the old forest occures at a canopy level. Gibbons, civets, birds and all sorts of fauna are high on the trees. And what best way to explore these in a canopy level too. A large network of ziplines takes you to see the jungle from above, staying overnight at treehouses built over 40 meters above ground and reached only by ziplines!
Huay Xai_Animo office
Bokeo reserve_And yet another break down
Bokeo reserve_Local house
Bokeo reserve_Typical tribal hats
Bokeo reserve_Village life
After two hours on the back of a truck, a breakdown and about an hour walk we arrived at Ban Donchai, a very small village at the boundary of the reserve. All villagers here are involved with the Gibbon Experience. Drivers, cooks, guides, forest guards, even the donkeys carrying rice sacks to the remote kitchens around the reserve. From Ban Donchai onwards was pure virgin old forest. We got our equipment (straps, hooks etc) and trekked to the first line. Our guide showed us how to zip along. The first go was a bit scary. You are holding on to a rolling mechanism strapped to your back and legs. Another hook works as the safety. You jump the platform and you find yourself 'flying' over the trees. Sooo much fun!
Bokeo reserve_Getting into the jungle
Bokeo reserve_Hanging on
Bokeo reserve_Zip line expert
Bokeo reserve_Follow that line
Bokeo reserve_Food delivery to the treehouse
Bokeo reserve_Animo's strictly local staff
Bokeo reserve_High rise
The treehouses were simply amazing. Had all the comforts of a nice basic guest house. We have recorded plenty of videos but I have uploaded only few, I wish I had the time to create a movie out of all of them. I have added photos of them below, captured from video I was taking. The first treehouse was a 'maisonette' with a an extra bedroom on the top floor and the other had an amazing toilet/bath at the bottom level. Food was getting prepared from nearby kitchens and zipped to the threehouse in a minute as soon as it was ready. Light during the night was provided by a number of LED lights powered by a small solar panel located at the roof. The only way to access the houses was the ziplines. The entrance and exits of the treehouses were simply breathtaking. Those treehouses resembled something from my childhood dreams! It was a unique experience.
Bokeo reserve_Up 'n' high!
Bokeo reserve_Treehouse #1 - Ton Mak Hai
Bokeo reserve_Treehouse maisonette
Bokeo reserve_Top floor bedroom(!)
Bokeo reserve_Solar powered
Bokeo reserve_Breathtaking exit
During the night, the sound of the jungle was immense! It was the most alive environment I ever slept in. We also heard the weird sound of gibbons, making like a UFO landing to earth! We had some nice harmless visitors like the spider at the photo, with the girls of the group saying they had nightmares of it that night. :) Our guides offered us a nice local wine, named Malacca! We couldn't believe it! B honest, Malacca wine! :)
Bokeo reserve_Malacca wine(!)
Bokeo reserve_...and its benefits!
Bokeo reserve_Night visitor
The day after we continued our favourite activity, ziplining! We left our treehouse and moved towards the next one. In the meanwhile, we visited a beautiful waterfall and pond and had a break. Some serious trekking was involved between some lines going upwards to reach the next platform. Was so worth it though..
Bokeo reserve_Views from the balcony
Bokeo reserve_At the waterfall pond
Bokeo reserve_Zipping around (1)
Bokeo reserve_Zipping around (2)
Bokeo reserve_Setting off
Bokeo reserve_Treehouse #5 - Kha Ya
Bokeo reserve_Treehouse accommodation
Bokeo reserve_Best shower in the world!
Bokeo reserve_Exit from the window please :)
We had unlimited access to all ziplines surrounding the tree houses. During the last hours of the day, we could zip around as much as we liked. On the second day, feeling pretty comfortable with it anymore, I did non stop ziping till dark. There were two lines passing above a water stream, hidden within thick forest of trees 50 meters high. The view from above at sunset was something I will never forget! It looked like the paradise on earth! Pure virgin jungle forest on a bird view. Felt as free as never felt before..
Bokeo reserve_Vertigo
Bokeo reserve_Virgin lush forest
Our Gibbon Experience group consisted by two Greek boys, one from England, a Polish and a Dutch couple. Along with us we had Jon Lao and Thai Shaun. Young locals with basic English skills and lots of fun! Jon Lao would prefer to live in the US and make money. Thai Sahun was happy with himself going to the karaoke bar in Huay Xai every now and then and have some fun. We recorded him singing and I wouldn't recommend him as your karoke pal. :) Overall, the group mixture and people made this experience even nicer and we all had great time, including the locals. The only down part was that we didn't actually see gibbons up in the trees, we could only listen to them at nights. However, I believe the whole experience was a great highlight of this trip, despite its inflated cost. Moreover, the money spent will be hopefully help protecting this amazing reserve and the locals to have some decent jobs in their home environments. A good cause..
Bokeo reserve_Jon Lao and his deadly knife
Bokeo reserve_Gibbon Experienced!
Bokeo reserve_Rough times on the lines Thai Shaun
Bokeo reserve_Local kids
We left Lao the same day we arrived back in Huay Xai. We went to the river bank, hired a boat to the other side and after 3 minutes we were in Thailand. Our days into this country were not too many, unfortunately. The only way out of Bokeo was Thailand, and considering we had to reach Bangkok at a certain date, we decided to go to Chiang Mai, north Thailand, and spend some days there before going to the capital. Laos was a very interesting country and we agreed that we should visit again to explore more of this truly amazing landscape and its nice people.
Back in Thailand, they issued us with a permit for only 15 days. We spent few days in Chiang Mai city. Not busy as Bangkok but still with a very evident tourism orientation. Plenty of agents advertising tours and activities and all this. My mind was still at Bokeo. I couldn't return back to the developed kind of way. I wish I could have stayed there for more days. To compensate, we thought to go and check an elephant camp at the outskirts of the city. In Lao, 'the kingdom of a million elephants' we didn't see even one. We hired bikes and about an hour after we arrived to the camp. We were lucky to find out there was the Thai national elephant day! There were demonstrations, parades and all the attention to the elephants. I loved them, it was my first ever direct contact with those gentle giants. Very clever and polite and fascinating animals. I want to believe their mahouts take care of them even when the crowds are gone.
Chiang Mai_Sausage by the meter
Chiang Mai_Mind that elephant!
Chiang Mai_National elephant day
Chiang Mai_Motherhood
Chiang Mai_Small eyes, long freckled nose, gentle giant
Chiang Mai_Elephants hugging tourists :)
Chiang Mai_Teeth brushing...
We explored Chiang Mai for few days but in the meanwhile there was quite a lot of administration to do. For the last few weeks in the remotes, we forgot we had to plan for the next parts of the trip and get prepared for what is coming. So in fact, we didn't see much of this city, other than the markets and our lovely neighbourhood. Our guest house (Jonadda) was beautiful and the staff very very nice people. In this guest house, on a night of thunderstorms and power cuts, we met an interesting German guy, Joakim, who calls himself 'the bike ambassador'. He started from Portugal with his bicycle and ended in China, in 30 months, alone! We thought that our RTW trip is a cruise for pensioners comparing to his story. Below is his website, worth having a look! Check some fascinating pics.
We arrived back in the mega-city of Bangkok few days ago. Here we are getting re organised and planning the next parts of the trip. Myself, I will have to revise my CEng presentation well before going to the interview on the 31st of March in Singapore. On the way, I will have short stops at Penang and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia. I have already all my train tickets booked. Spyros will continue towards the Thai islands before we meet again in Singapore to get our flight for Australia. Exciting things coming on, but for now it's not holidays for me, until that day...
Bangkok down town
Keep your thoughts positive, free yourself!
Nektarios~
p.s Have you seen a film called Baraka? Watched it recently and it was the most fascinating film I watched for years. It is a collection of scenes taken from 24 different countries, with no narrative, just music. Simply amazing, strongly recommended watching...