Tuesday 15 August 2017

Wild Africa -part1

This is the first part of two posts to publish material, words and thoughts of an amazing trip to Africa. The first one will cover the days in the reserves and open pans of Botswana and will include a bit of Zim and Zam (Zimbabwe and Zambia that is) and the visit to the majestic Victoria Falls. The second part will start right at the Chobe riverfront at Ngoma bridge and will end up few thousand kilometers away in Namibia's capital, Windhoek. Exactly as it took place in April/May'17.



Flying into Africa



Flags to get to know


So here we are, 3 good tried-and-tested friends, embarking for the beauties of the southern regions of the African continent. After months of preparations, late night planning meetings, skype calls and almost daily negotiations with our African counterparts, we got in a plane to the south. Intermediate stops at Cairo and Johannesburg, and voila Maun/Botswana! This was perhaps one of a few trips that insertion to the country was at a remote airport and not in the capital.

By the time we landed, we were already there, at the vast expanse of the mighty Okavango Delta, one of Africa's most iconic landscapes! Apart from the countless animal wildlife, the ghostly silhouettes of dead trees give the delta a hint of the apocalypse! The African savanah breeze was a warm and nice natural welcome to the new environments. At the tiny Maun airport, it was a matter of seconds to find our agent. He took us to the camp and arranged what we needed for the next few days at the reserves. On the same day we managed to do a boat ride at the local Thalamakane river. So our first evening ended by watching the sunset on-board of a riverboat into the delta's waterlands..




Entering the plane for the heart of the savannah



Early next day, we were already on the go. An open Toyota Land Cruiser with a fully equipped trailer, the driver/guide, the cook and the three of us. First stop at Khwai game reserve. We set camp and slowly realised our new environments next to the water and of course along elephants, rhinos, crocs and any other mammals anyone can imagine.




Heading to the wilds



Luxury facilities!



Giraffes passing by..




..and elephants take their bath



The next days were full safari days. Game driving around the reserve and spotting wild animals. No walking or trekking or chilling around on our own. We had strict guidelines that we must always remain in the vehicle. So we drove and stop and drove and stop for hours. Except in some areas, the landscape was predominantly dense bush making it difficult to see far but only around us. In the evening we moved to the open plan, tried to spot wildlife game and enjoyed the majestic sunset over the savanah.




Looking for the mammals



Elephant family



Black or white?



The cutest giraffe in the Okavango!



Two days after and about 120kms afar we camped within Savuti game reserve. A vast open expanse the Savuti marsh is open land and spotting herds of wild animals is relatively easier. The area was once a very large lake that stretched across northern Botswana, today it is a dry large opening with a distinctive harsh and empty feel to it. There, we were lucky enough to spot a group of lions having set a trap to a buffalo. Amazing feeling of contentment to be so close to the king of the jungle, at its natural environments. It was one of the highlights, truly an experience to remember. 



Downfoot at Savuti



African skies



Time for dinner



Next day we glided across the waters in a mokorro, a shallow canoe that is led and moved by a standing poler. The peace and serenity of the activity was only stopped when we spotted a hippo showing off his jaws. They can become unpredictable if they feel that their own space is invaded. Of course we didn't go close but around, we rather took the long way.   



Our guides (and canoe polers)



Hyperolius parallelus (or simply the reed frog)



Serenity



A male hippo showing off his jaws



Crocodilino



Another amazing day comes to an end



Moving on from Savuti, we camped at Chobe river front. This was perhaps one of the best spots we camped during our days in Africa. We had an amazing sunset at the banks of Chobe with elephants passing by. It was trully mesmerizing and a moment to remember for a lifetime! The next day we saw all mammals concentrated at the river banks, giraffes, impalas, bufallos, elephants, kudus all leaving together in harmony.

We arrived in the town Kasane about midday. We arranged for a river boat to take us and see things from the waterside. We've seen elephants crossing the river, a group of hippos taking a bath, some crocodiles and amazing birds, only meters away from us!

We returned to Kasane and departed for the border with Zambia nearby. We crossed the river/border with a primitive ferry against the strong currents if Chobe. Luckily we've made it and entered Zambia in good moods.



Typical savanna



Waterhole in the middle of nowhere



The lion king



and the family



A young male looking for hunt



An elephant at its natural spot



African evening skies



Setting up dinner



On the go again



Wild buffalo Spyros



Drive on thin and loose sand



Baboons blocking the way..



An elephant strolling by the river



Ma-gni-fi-scent setting



With the boys sailing Chobe river



We crossed the border at the Kazungula ferry, where four different country borders (Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe) meet right at the heart of Zambezi river. Even if it was a short ride the cross was epic, considering the strong river currents and the fact that the ferry was a true wreckage platform taking you across to the other side. Plus we had to step into water in order to reach Zambia. To avoid it, we got hold at the back of an exiting track. Funny entry to the country..

We moved quickly to Livingstone, a mostly touristic town in Zambia servicing the crowds visiting the Victoria Falls. We walked around and had nice dinner, realizing that people here looked more stressed and worried compared to the Batswanas. Next day, off to the might falls!    

The setting is an amazing gorge between flatlands on the Zambezi river. The weather was not so great and the amount of water flowing was at its peak at this time of the year. Meaning visibility was relatively low, even if we were so close to the waterfalls. We enjoyed getting soaked by the spray and rain and moved on.  




Victoria Falls bridge



Praying for the rain to stop



Million of litres per second



Victoria Falls bridge



Photobombing on our epic photo!



Ready to take on our own wheels and hit the Namibian roads!